Chateau Chantilly

My husband and I went to visit Chantilly (which is often mispronounced--it is "shan-tee-yee") recently. Chantilly is a chateau/palace/castle about 45 minutes outside Paris, which I believe was originally built in the 16th century and looks as though it is floating on a pond. It is a gorgeous place with a drawbridge, turrets, and the reflection of the water onto the external walls gives the place an ethereal aura. In addition to the beautiful effect of the exterior, Chantilly also allegedly houses an impressive art collection--with paintings by Raphael, Delacroix, and Titian--and offers a glimpse of the palace's apartments as they looked in the early 19th century.
You might wonder how I KNOW that it is beautiful from the exterior, yet only have ALLEGED information as to the interior.

Well I will tell you why:
Upon arriving at the gare/train station in Chantilly, we walked about 30 minutes or so to reach the chateau. There is supposedly a bus that runs between the station and the chateau, but we could not figure it out. I am not embarassed by that fact since if this year in France has taught me anything at all, it is that I cannot figure out much of life in general. And it was no great matter to miss the bus anyway since the walk was lovely; through a wooded path, then across an open field with a gorgeous (and quite famous) horse stable/riding ring. We even detoured into the little town center, and had a typical French lunch.

I brand the lunch "typically" French for three reasons. One, we ate quiche and chevre chaud. Two, we received ridiculously inconsistent and incomprehensible customer service. Three, the couple at the table next to us, who were basically sitting on top of us in this "typical" bistro, were enjoying each other's mouths far more than they were enjoying their food. But whatever, the food was good.

So when we finally arrived at the gates of the chateau, we find the billeterie/ticket office to be closed. Baffled by this turn of events, since the sign on the door clearly stated the opening hours--and we were well within them--I asked the guard what was going on.

The ensueing scenario is borderline predictable, but I will tell you anyway: He looked/glared at me for about 20 seconds longer than necessary before giving me a rather surly little "PFFFT" and responding to my French question in slow, deliberate English: "Castle is closed. A visit is not possible today." And he immediately turned around for no particular reason that I could discern other than to emphasize that he was through with me.

Being a persistent little bugger (and not wanting to think we wasted the day sitting on public transportation and watching a live cinemax movie at lunch only to not see the main attraction), I asked him if there was anyone who could explain to me the reason for the closing and/or if I could talk to someone. I asked this question not merely to be a thorn in his side, but because right as we were being turned away, there were still many people entering the grounds. Being the quasi-detective that I am, I ascertained that SOME people were allowed in. He just responded: "Special event today. You can try to talk to the people over there" This information was finished with another body spin away from yours truly.

So I spoke to the people "over there": a team of ladies in a little hut who were engaged in the serious business of gossiping and smoking cigarettes while pretending to organize what looked like brochures. One of the women (reluctantly) told me that there was a special fireworks display that evening and thus the chateau was closed. Okay.

I then said, "We did not see a notice on your website today. When are you opened then?" She responded: "Oh, we are open every day except for Tuesday, all year, all the time."

Me: "Every day except Tuesday, all year, all the time...except today?" (It was a Friday).

Her: "Yes, exactly. Except today, tomorrow, and some other times. But all the time from 10-6."

What?

Then it starts pouring rain and because it had been brilliantly sunny up until we were turned away from the chateau (symbolism, much?) we had no raincoats or umbrellas. Shame on me, I know to have no umbrella on my person in "sunny" Paris.

So we walk through half the field/mudslide and see that there is a show happening at the stables. It seemed fortuitous that the show was starting in two minutes, so we bought tickets and went.

Well, it was really a lovely show. Housed in a gorgeous amphitheater turned riding ring where they give demonstrations about dressage, horse training, and riding techniques. The highlight was the finale, when they brought out a team of animals, including an Eeyore clone, an exquisite beige pony with fluffy white hair, a wiley little donkey, and a miniature horse with the shortest legs imaginable named lil' Pedro or something adorable like that. They ran around and performed tricks and it was charming and hilarious.

Given the impromptu horse show, the "failed" trip to Chantilly was worth it in the end. And today I am actually going to take a second stab at gaining entrance to the chateau. It is not a Tuesday, there is no special announcement on the website or anywhere else that I can find, and I am going with a French person who has verified that the chateau will be open today.

All that considered, I figure I have about a 60% chance of actually seeing the interior without incident and an 80-85% chance of enduring some absurd customer service. If the latter comes to fruition, I will of course, fill you in accordingly.

In the meantime, I will give lil' Pedro your best.